Growing English potatoes — the kind we all know and love (Solanum tuberosum) — in pots has been one of the most enjoyable things I’ve done in my garden-at-home journey.
A lot of people assume you need a big garden or even a proper backyard to grow potatoes. I used to think the same.
But here’s the truth: with just a single pot — or a few of them — you can grow a surprisingly good amount of potatoes, right there on your balcony, in a corner of your patio, or even in your apartment if it gets good light.
I’ve been doing this for years, and in this guide, I want to walk you through everything I’ve learned along the way.
It’s easier than you might expect, and the reward? Incredible — not just in harvest, but in that deep satisfaction of eating something you nurtured from scratch.
Why Potatoes in Pots?
Let me start by answering a question I get a lot: “Why bother growing potatoes in a pot when they’re so cheap in the store?”
Fair point — but here’s why I do it anyway: control, quality, and the simple joy of growing your own food.
When you grow your own potatoes, you know exactly what went into them. No pesticides, no chemicals, and honestly, they taste better.
On top of that, growing in pots gives you control. You manage the soil, the watering, and the growing conditions — which is a huge advantage.
And if you don’t have a lot of space, this method is a game-changer.
So, let’s get to the good part — how to actually make it work.
1. Picking the Right Pot
This part is important. The pot you choose really does affect your results. I’ve learned this the hard way.
Potatoes need space to grow downward. So, your pot needs to be deep — at least 40 to 50 cm (about 16–20 inches) — and wide — 30 cm or more (12+ inches) is ideal.
That’s because potatoes develop along the buried stem, and the more vertical room they have, the better your yield.
You can use all sorts of containers: plastic pots, ceramic ones, repurposed buckets, old bins, even fabric grow bags (which I personally like for how well they manage moisture).
Whatever you pick, don’t skip the drainage holes at the bottom. That’s non-negotiable — you need good drainage or the roots will rot.
2. Getting the Soil Just Right
Potatoes don’t like heavy, compacted soil. They do best in light, loose, and rich soil that drains well and has plenty of organic matter.
Here’s the mix I’ve used for great results:
- 2 parts good quality topsoil
- 1 part coarse, washed sand (for drainage)
- 1 part compost (homemade compost, worm castings, or aged manure)
- A handful of wood ash or bone meal (adds potassium and phosphorus)
This gives you a fluffy, fertile mix that potatoes thrive in.
Before filling the pot, I like to toss in a thin layer of gravel or broken tiles at the bottom — just to help drainage and keep those holes from clogging.
3. Choosing and Prepping Seed Potatoes
Now comes the fun part — choosing your seed potatoes.
You don’t need anything fancy. I usually grab a few organic potatoes from the market — as long as they’re starting to sprout a little, they’ll do just fine.
Make sure each potato has at least two “eyes” (those little dimples where sprouts grow). If they’re large, you can cut them into smaller chunks with a couple of eyes each.
Let those cut pieces sit out for a day or two to dry and heal the cut surfaces — that way, they won’t rot when you plant them.
4. Planting Them in the Pot
With your pot and soil ready, and your seed potatoes prepped, it’s time to plant.
Start by filling the pot with 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 inches) of soil. Place the potatoes on top, eyes facing upward, spaced at least 15 cm (6 inches) apart.
Then cover them with another 10 cm (4 inches) of soil. That’s all you need to do for now. Just wait for them to sprout.
Here’s a trick that really makes a difference: add soil gradually.
As the plants grow, keep covering the lower stems with more soil — just enough to leave the top leaves poking out.
This “hilling” technique encourages the plant to grow more tubers along the buried stem.
Keep adding soil until you reach the top of the pot. Usually, you’ll need to do this 2 or 3 times as the plant develops.
5. Taking Care of Your Potato Plants
Watering
Potatoes like moist soil, but not soaking wet. I aim to keep the soil lightly moist — not dry, not soggy.
In hot weather, I often water every day. In cooler weather, every other day is enough.
Don’t pour water directly on the leaves or young shoots. Water the soil around the plant instead — it helps avoid fungal issues.
Sunlight
Potatoes need a lot of sunlight — at least 5 to 6 hours of direct sun daily.
The more sun they get, the better they grow. If you’re indoors, place the pot near a bright window or out on a sunny balcony.
Without enough light, the plants will grow weak and give a poor harvest.
Feeding the Plants
If you started with rich soil, you might not need extra fertilizer. But if the plants look like they could use a boost, after about 30 days you can give them something rich in potassium and phosphorus — like bone meal or a natural liquid fertilizer.
Avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers — they’ll give you leafy plants but not many potatoes.
6. Dealing with Pests and Diseases
Pests aren’t a big issue in pots, but they can show up. Keep an eye out for:
- Aphids (tiny bugs that suck on the leaves)
- Larvae and beetles (can chew through leaves and even the potatoes)
- Fungi (which cause spots, rot, and wilting)
I deal with these using natural sprays — garlic tea, diluted natural soap, or neem oil all work well.
Also, don’t let the leaves get soaked, keep good airflow around the pots, and remove any damaged or dry leaves you see.
7. When and How to Harvest
Harvesting is the best part — seriously. The full potato cycle runs from 90 to 120 days, depending on your climate and the variety.
You’ll know it’s time when the plant starts to yellow and die back naturally. That usually happens around the three-month mark.
When that happens, I trim the dead stems and let the tubers sit in the soil for another week or two. This helps the skins firm up so they last longer in storage.
To harvest, just tip the pot over on a tarp or a cloth and dig through the soil with your hands.
It honestly feels like finding buried treasure.
8. Storing Your Potatoes
Once harvested, I rinse mine lightly (or not at all), then leave them in the shade for a day to dry.
Avoid leaving them in direct sun — that can turn the skins green, which isn’t safe to eat.
Store them in a cool, dry, dark place — they’ll last for weeks this way.
And if you want to plant again, save a few of the smaller ones and let them sprout. That way, you always have seed potatoes ready.
9. A Few Extra Tips to Boost Your Harvest
- Plant in stages: Instead of planting all your pots at once, space them out every 2–3 weeks. That way, you’ll have fresh potatoes coming in one after the other.
- Rotate your pots: If you don’t get consistent sunlight, turn the pots every few days so every side gets a fair share.
- Try different types: English potatoes are great, but experiment with purple varieties, Asterix, or Monalisa for flavor and fun.
- Mulch it up: A layer of straw or dried leaves helps keep the soil moist and weeds at bay.
Growing potatoes in pots isn’t just doable — it’s deeply satisfying.
Every sprout, every leaf, and every potato you pull out of that soil is a little victory — a reminder of what nature can do when we give it care and attention.
You don’t need a big garden. A sunny window, a small balcony, or a corner in your yard is all it takes.
Start with one pot. Watch what happens. You’ll probably want to add more before long.
If you’re just starting out or have already pulled your first harvest, I’d love to hear how it went.
For me, growing food is an act of love — and that’s something worth sharing.